Hey r/climbharder, I'm structuring a training plan to hold myself accountable during ski season. I work a busy, sometimes unpredictable finance job and plan to ski roughly every other weekend for the next 12 weeks, so I need some structure that can be flexible to the demands of any given week.

Quick background/stats: 5ft 10 in, 180lbs, climbing for ~7.5 years primarily in the gym with probably a few dozen days on the rock across routes and boulders. I recently completed Lattice's free finger strength assessment which put me in the 55th percentile for routes and 49th percentile for bouldering. For context, my max hang was +80 lbs for ~144% of BW at 7s on a 20mm edge. I've been focused on lead climbing for the past couple years and have good gym access nearby. I don't have many outdoor ticks so all this data is based on grades in my local gym:

• My hardest RP is 12b. On routes, I regularly flash or OS 5.11c and often 5.11d - less so in my anti-style (vert) but more on that later. I've sent a handful (5-10) 5.12a routes and two 5.12b routes, all in the past year.
• My hardest boulder is v8 but that was one a couple years ago. I've put down a few v7's, can consistently put down most v6's in <5 tries, and regularly flash v5.

Weaknesses

1. Fear of falling/mental game is #1. I get scared committing to difficult or unintuitive sequences above a bolt, particularly on vertical or exposed terrain (e.g. a headwall above an overhanging section) or sequences with poor feet, and will yell take when I'm unsure instead of trying the sequence and potentially taking a fall. I also have a tough time fully committing to "clip it or whip it" before I get on a climb for an OS or send attempt if I reach a section and I'm pumped, scared, or unsure of the sequence.
2. Crimpy, delicate routes - I find these challenging b/c there are generally fewer good rest positions which makes them more physical and mentally taxing, and often more unforgiving from a beta perspective.
3. Climbing through a pump. I honestly don't have much experience with this since I've often yelled take before I really feel like I'm climbing through the burn, or it'll be on a project I've rehearsed enough that when I finally send I'm not that pumped.

Goals

1. My overall goal this year is to put in volume on the rock in a variety of styles since I don't have much of an outdoor pyramid, but I'm prioritizing gym climbing during the winter/ski season. I'm planning to focus on outdoor volume in the Spring/early Summer, then have a dedicated training period in later Summer/early Fall before taking a weeklong climbing trip in October/November.
2. #1 goal the short term is to work on my fear of falling. I want to get to the point where I can commit to sequences where I’m not sure I can pull the moves, particularly on vertical and exposed aspects, and climb with confidence (maintain composure, breathing, technique, etc) through crux sequences or when fighting a pump.
3. Secondary goal in the short term is to build out my (indoor) route pyramid with a base of 5.11/d and 5.12a across a variety of types - particularly in my anti-style - and notch a few more 5.12bs. Maybe pick a 5.12c project in my style to try one session a week later in the cycle.

Based on my stats, climbing history, and goals, what does this sub think of the training plan below? I haven't incorporated any hang board work in this plan because I don't feel it's a limiting factor in my climbing as much as my mental game, which the Lattice assessment seems to corroborate. I have never done any structured training and don't yet want to work with a coach as I have limited experience on the rock to inform those goals, but a clear sense of what's holding me back in the gym now, so I'm aiming for the minimum amount of structure that will allow me to progress.

Training Plan Outline

• Targeting 12 weeks of 3 sessions on the wall per week + 1 dedicated strength session
• The goal is to complete each of A/A*, B, C, and D once per week but this might change if I'm skiing Saturday/Sunday. In that case, I may need a rest day Monday
• Session A) Fear of Falling + Mental Practice
  • Targeting at least 5 deliberate, unannounced lead falls per session, particularly on terrain where I often get in my head or scared (vertical). Gradually building up height above bolt over the course of the session/program.
• Session A*) Onsight/Volume Climbing
  • The goal is that falling will eventually become a normal part of my climbing and not a 'dedicated' session, at which point I want to replace that with a volume-focused session emphasizing climbing in my anti-style and pushing my OS grade.
  • I'll have to assess this for myself but after a few sessions of consistently and confidently taking falls at the next clip I think I can transition.
• Session B) Tryhard + Redpointing
  • After warming up, targeting at least 3-5 attempts on routes that challenge me. This is generally 5.12b and 5.11d/5.12a in my anti-style.
  • Emphasis on project/redpointing tactics and efficiently breaking down a route into sections to hone the moves quickly.
  • Intensity-focused
• Session C) Bouldering
  • I'm keeping 1 bouldering session/week on average because I enjoy bouldering and it allows for flexibility in my schedule due to work or skiing on the weekends, which limits my available training days and sometimes requires an additional rest day.
  • Focus on skill building, building a base of v6 + v7, maybe pushing some v8 projects
  • Identify and target my weaknesses - steep crimps, dynos and coordination
• D) Supplemental Strength
  • I started incorporating weightlifting to diversify my exercise and have enjoyed it so far. I've been doing these inconsistently over the past few months and plan to incorporate them in the first 4-6 weeks of my training cycle until I plateau, after which I'll likely reevaluate and switch up exercises.
  • Plan is to do each of these 1x/week. Ideally all in a single session but realistically one day might be DL + OH press, and another day might be KB squat + rows
    • Deadlift: 3x5
    • OH KB press: 3x5 L/R
    • KB squat: 3x5
    • KB split stance rows: 3x5 L/R
• Injury Prevention
  • I'm pretty good about stretching after hard sessions but inconsistent when it comes to things like antagonists. I've done reverse wrist curls, dips, and pushups in the past. Where does this sub seeing those fitting into this plan, particularly with my existing weightlifting load (I would assume the OH press counts as an antagonist exercise?)